E-match

[butchie]

Purchased a few remotes and some E-match (Chinese).Could not wait to
play with them and see how well they would function. The E-match came
with a plastic sleeve at the serious end, shot 2 standard 3" salutes
( Chinese). After removing the paper sleeve from the fuse to the
salutes the plastic sleeve from the E-match was not even a close match
as far as size. So I taped them together, no problem. What am I
missing here, maybe a improper E-match? I have helped fire a few shows
and paid close attention to any E-match firing systems used in a show,
don't remember this being such a hassle. Any help? Thanks.

[c***@yahoo.com]

Post by butchie
Purchased a few remotes and some E-match (Chinese).Could not wait to
play with them and see how well they would function. The E-match came
with a plastic sleeve at the serious end, shot 2 standard 3" salutes
( Chinese). After removing the paper sleeve from the fuse to the
salutes the plastic sleeve from the E-match was not even a close match
as far as size. So I taped them together, no problem. What am I
missing here, maybe a improper E-match? I have helped fire a few shows
and paid close attention to any E-match firing systems used in a show,
don't remember this being such a hassle. Any help? Thanks.

The safety match from the shell leader is not supposed to be inserted
into the ematch plastic shroud. The plastic shroud is there simply to
direct the slag fired off from the ematch in one specific direction. I
usually just pull that collar back and disregard it. The way you
match a shell assuming you don't want to squib the lift is take a
knife NOT scissors, and cut the shell leader fuse a couple inches
below the safety fuse. The safety fuse is the end of the shell leader
that is exposed when you pull the colored paper safety cap off. You
will notice that where it goes into the paper there is somewhat of a
solid spot where the paper is glued tightly around the fuse match.
Just cut the fuse match off an inch or two below this point where the
fuse is loose inside the paper cover. Then gently roll the leader
between your fingers to loosen the paper some from the blackmatch
inside. Making sure your ematch is making direct contact with the
blackmatch insert it an inch or two into the quickmatch (shell leader
fuse), then fold the quick match over so that the fold keeps the round
business end of the squib (e-match) snugly inside the quickmatch. Now
there are several ways of tying this off, but it would be really
difficult to explain without showing you. You can tie it off with the
squib wire any way you want or with a piece of tape. Your shell is
ready to fire. Most shells now are being shipped with the e-match
plastic coupler already installed on the quickmatch. It will look like
a plastic coupling device with a hole that is about the same size as
the plastic collar on your squib and they usually have a couple of
ears hanging off to tie the squib lead wire off on to make sure it
stays in there. To use this simply keep the plastic shroud over the
business end of the squib just like they come out of the box, then
insert it directly into the plastic coupler on the shell leader, push
it in good and tight, then tie off the squib wire on the ears and it
is ready to go. If you do it this way it is imperative that you leave
the plastic shroud over the end of the squib because it is going to
direct the slag from the squib down the plastic coupler and into the
blackmatch inside the quickmatch. Good luck, hope this helps.

[ned]

The plastic shroud is there simply to

Post by c***@yahoo.com
direct the slag fired off from the ematch in one specific direction. I
usually just pull that collar back and disregard it. The way you

.

I'd like to respectfully, but most strongly, disagree with the above
statement. Before the ematch shrouds were introduced a while back,
there were many accidents attributed to shock on ematch heads inserted
into leaders, or friction applied to the head during insertion or
removal of the ematch. The shrouds were introduced to address these
issues by protecting the match head, and many of us have been trained
as a matter of dogma to never remove the shroud from the head.
Otherwise, the method of inserting the shrouded ematch into the match
pipe of the leader, or of placing the open end of the shroud of the
ematch against the bare match exposed by the slicing open of the
leader, and then folding over the leader and securing with a couple of
half hitches in the ematch wire, are commonly used methods of
installing ematches.
Stay Green,
ned

[andys_junk_address at yahoo dot com]

I would be tickled if someone would take pictures of the process of
properly inserting the shrouded match and tying the leads around the
leader both *with* the plastic adapter that comes pre-attached on many
brands and without. The photo(s) could then be posted on PyroUniverse
and other sites when this question comes up (as it does quite
frequently).


--
Andy H.

Post by c***@yahoo.com
The plastic shroud is there simply to

Post by c***@yahoo.com
direct the slag fired off from the ematch in one specific direction. I
usually just pull that collar back and disregard it. The way you

.
I'd like to respectfully, but most strongly, disagree with the above
statement. Before the ematch shrouds were introduced a while back,
there were many accidents attributed to shock on ematch heads inserted
into leaders, or friction applied to the head during insertion or
removal of the ematch. The shrouds were introduced to address these
issues by protecting the match head, and many of us have been trained
as a matter of dogma to never remove the shroud from the head.
Otherwise, the method of inserting the shrouded ematch into the match
pipe of the leader, or of placing the open end of the shroud of the
ematch against the bare match exposed by the slicing open of the
leader, and then folding over the leader and securing with a couple of
half hitches in the ematch wire, are commonly used methods of
installing ematches.
Stay Green,
ned

[butchie]

On May 10, 10:03 pm, andys_junk_address at yahoo dot com

Post by andys_junk_address at yahoo dot com
I would be tickled if someone would take pictures of the process of
properly inserting the shrouded match and tying the leads around the
leader both *with* the plastic adapter that comes pre-attached on many
brands and without. The photo(s) could then be posted on PyroUniverse
and other sites when this question comes up (as it does quite
frequently).
--
Andy H.

Post by c***@yahoo.com
The plastic shroud is there simply to

Post by c***@yahoo.com
direct the slag fired off from the ematch in one specific direction. I
usually just pull that collar back and disregard it. The way you

.
I'd like to respectfully, but most strongly, disagree with the above
statement. Before the ematch shrouds were introduced a while back,
there were many accidents attributed to shock on ematch heads inserted
into leaders, or friction applied to the head during insertion or
removal of the ematch. The shrouds were introduced to address these
issues by protecting the match head, and many of us have been trained
as a matter of dogma to never remove the shroud from the head.
Otherwise, the method of inserting the shrouded ematch into the match
pipe of the leader, or of placing the open end of the shroud of the
ematch against the bare match exposed by the slicing open of the
leader, and then folding over the leader and securing with a couple of
half hitches in the ematch wire, are commonly used methods of
installing ematches.
Stay Green,
ned- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

My mentor was from the old school, he loves the "up close and personal
shoot", road flare, not like the newer pyro,s with a lap top and all
the expensive equipment.. For 5 years I never saw a show even though
I was danceing around the ash ambers some of you shooters know what I
mean. He taught me a proper set-up. knots, secured racks, saftey, etc.
for my purposes I would use these new toys for a little class c back
yard show, NOT PRO! thanks for the info. I'm an old fart and alwas
willing to learn. Thanks again.

[Lloyd E. Sponenburgh]

Post by c***@yahoo.com
The plastic shroud is there simply to

Post by c***@yahoo.com
direct the slag fired off from the ematch in one specific direction. I
usually just pull that collar back and disregard it. The way you

.
I'd like to respectfully, but most strongly, disagree with the above
statement. Before the ematch shrouds were introduced a while back,
there were many accidents attributed to shock on ematch heads inserted
into leaders, or friction applied to the head during insertion or
removal of the ematch. The shrouds were introduced to address these
issues by protecting the match head, and many of us have been trained
as a matter of dogma to never remove the shroud from the head.
Otherwise, the method of inserting the shrouded ematch into the match
pipe of the leader, or of placing the open end of the shroud of the
ematch against the bare match exposed by the slicing open of the
leader, and then folding over the leader and securing with a couple of
half hitches in the ematch wire, are commonly used methods of
installing ematches.
Stay Green,
ned

I'd have to disagree with the dogma. It's good safety practice, yes, but
completely impractical on a real show.

It is true that e-match heads are friction sensitive -- and the Chinese
chlorate heads more so. But reasonable care inserting the match into the
gob will ensure no dangerous friction.

One must NEVER pull a match head out of any device forceably. I know of two
technicians who've been guilty of this, and both had accidents as a result
(fortunately, not serious).

The Davey-fire heads came with optional shields for as long as I can
remember. Whenever matching directly into the lift, it's wise to keep the
shield in place, since you can't really see what you're pushing it into.
When matching leaders, it's much easier to be safe. The heads are a great
deal smaller than the space among the quickmatch strands.

LLoyd

[ned]

Post by Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

Post by c***@yahoo.com
The plastic shroud is there simply to

Post by c***@yahoo.com
direct the slag fired off from the ematch in one specific direction. I
usually just pull that collar back and disregard it. The way you

.
I'd like to respectfully, but most strongly, disagree with the above
statement. Before the ematch shrouds were introduced a while back,
there were many accidents attributed to shock on ematch heads inserted
into leaders, or friction applied to the head during insertion or
removal of the ematch. The shrouds were introduced to address these
issues by protecting the match head, and many of us have been trained
as a matter of dogma to never remove the shroud from the head.
Otherwise, the method of inserting the shrouded ematch into the match
pipe of the leader, or of placing the open end of the shroud of the
ematch against the bare match exposed by the slicing open of the
leader, and then folding over the leader and securing with a couple of
half hitches in the ematch wire, are commonly used methods of
installing ematches.
Stay Green,
ned

I'd have to disagree with the dogma. It's good safety practice, yes, but
completely impractical on a real show.
It is true that e-match heads are friction sensitive -- and the Chinese
chlorate heads more so. But reasonable care inserting the match into the
gob will ensure no dangerous friction.
One must NEVER pull a match head out of any device forceably. I know of two
technicians who've been guilty of this, and both had accidents as a result
(fortunately, not serious).
The Davey-fire heads came with optional shields for as long as I can
remember. Whenever matching directly into the lift, it's wise to keep the
shield in place, since you can't really see what you're pushing it into.
When matching leaders, it's much easier to be safe. The heads are a great
deal smaller than the space among the quickmatch strands.
LLoyd- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -

Lloyd, I hope we can agree to disagree on this one. We've installed
thousands of ematches for 'real shows', keeping the shrouds in place,
and avoiding the potential for the kinds of accidents you describe.
Additionally the shrouds add much safety if the product is to be boxed
and shipped by truck to a show after being ematched.
Best,
ned

[Nobody]

Post by ned
Additionally the shrouds add much safety if the product is to be boxed
and shipped by truck to a show after being ematched.

The typical ematch is a board with #50 Nichrome wire, a sensitive
composition, such as dark flash, over the Nichrome, and a less
sensitive composition over that to produce the desired fire/flame
effect (short burn, long burn, large flame, intense heat, etc.). Some
ematches use a different wire size. It depends upon the application.

Daveyfire made many ematch models. The best known ones were the N28B,
N28BR and N28F. These all used #50 Nichrome. The "28" in the model
name means 28 micron wire, which is 50 AWG. The B and BR had a very
short burn time (1-2 milliseconds). The "F" had a different
composition and burned about 40 times longer (40 milliseonds) than the
B and BR.

The explosive(s) used in most ematches are shock and friction
sensitive. A strike, such as ematch heads colliding due to bouncing in
a box while being transported in a vehicle will sometimes cause them
to ignite. This is not common, but it can occur. A hard enough strike
will always cause them to ignite. A hood is to help prevent accidental
ignition. It can also be used to direct the flame in a particular
direction when that is desired.

Ematches can be fired by an electromagnetic pulse, such as from a
nearby lightning strike. One report that I read talked about a strike
within 6'. Electrostatic discharges are also a concern. Ematches that
are less prone to these problems exist, but at a cost, and for
military and aerospace applications. For example, you don't want a
(solid propellant) missile accidently igniting due to an EMP.

[Kelly]

Post by Nobody
The explosive(s) used in most ematches are shock and friction
sensitive.

Looking at some of the common formulae, I'd agree. But why are such
formulae used? I would think that NOT being shock/friction sensitive
would be a primary requirement for an ematch?

Kelly

[Lloyd E. Sponenburgh]

Post by Kelly
Looking at some of the common formulae, I'd agree. But why are such
formulae used? I would think that NOT being shock/friction sensitive
would be a primary requirement for an ematch?

In order to produce an incandescent filament with questionable supply
voltages, the filament must be small -- low mass and size. A filament of
low mass and size produces such a small "spark" when it burns through that
it's barely visible if you watch closely in normal room lighting. Try it
with a bare ODA chip some time.

Such a tiny source of heat produces little of it. Therefore, the pyrogen
must have a very low activation energy and low ignition temperature. Thus,
sensitive comps.

A #50 filament won't ignite bound black powder reliably. A good match
composition takes some work to get right.

There's a reason for there being so few competitive e-match companies
supplying the industry. We use hundreds of thousands of matches a year, yet
nobody is knocking down our doors to sell them -- except the Chinese, who
market a wholly inferior product.

LLoyd

[Lloyd E. Sponenburgh]

Post by ned
Lloyd, I hope we can agree to disagree on this one. We've installed
thousands of ematches for 'real shows', keeping the shrouds in place,
and avoiding the potential for the kinds of accidents you describe.

We can disagree amicably. We have also never had an e-match accident, doing
it the way we do.
(never _had_ doesn't mean "never will"; I know) The two techs who yanked
squibs out weren't ours, and knew better. If you can believe this, one of
the accidents happened in a storage shed of 1.4g goods, and the item that
ignited was a 36-shot cake. It blew comets all over the shed, but not one
other box (closed, mercifully) caught fire. I asked him what the hell he
was thinking to be doing "manufacturing" inside a storage area. Glum, dumb
look in response.

Post by ned
Additionally the shrouds add much safety if the product is to be boxed
and shipped by truck to a show after being ematched.

Ned, unless you're a member of the very small special-exemption group of
companies that are permitted to ship pre-squibbed shells, you're committing
a serious criminal offense by doing so. If you don't _know_ you're a member
of that group, you probably are not, even if you've done it for years.

Be careful of that, please. Most folks don't even know it's illegal.

LLoyd

[Raul]

Post by Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

Post by ned
Lloyd, I hope we can agree to disagree on this one. We've installed
thousands of ematches for 'real shows', keeping the shrouds in place,
and avoiding the potential for the kinds of accidents you describe.

We can disagree amicably. We have also never had an e-match accident, doing
it the way we do.
(never _had_ doesn't mean "never will"; I know) The two techs who yanked
squibs out weren't ours, and knew better. If you can believe this, one of
the accidents happened in a storage shed of 1.4g goods, and the item that
ignited was a 36-shot cake. It blew comets all over the shed, but not one
other box (closed, mercifully) caught fire. I asked him what the hell he
was thinking to be doing "manufacturing" inside a storage area. Glum, dumb
look in response.

Post by ned
Additionally the shrouds add much safety if the product is to be boxed
and shipped by truck to a show after being ematched.

Ned, unless you're a member of the very small special-exemption group of
companies that are permitted to ship pre-squibbed shells, you're committing
a serious criminal offense by doing so. If you don't _know_ you're a member
of that group, you probably are not, even if you've done it for years.
Be careful of that, please. Most folks don't even know it's illegal.
LLoyd

Lloyd,

Wasn't a few guys killed a few years ago when they were unloading a
trailer of pre-matched shells and one of the matches popped while
still in the box ? That practice would really spook me !

[h***@yahoo.com]

Raul, specifics please. Who determined that an attached ematch caused
the explosion. Couldn't it be eqully due to rought handling of the
goods?

Don't know about you Raul, but when I am handling fireworks, I treat
them as tenderly as fresh eggs. Often clueless grunts do not, often
to their misfortune.

Raul, just so you know, I've been bullet proof for about 50 years of
fireworks displays, so do you really think this is an accident of fate
or that the squibs played any role whatsoever?


Harry C.

Post by ned

Post by Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

Post by ned
Lloyd, I hope we can agree to disagree on this one. We've installed
thousands of ematches for 'real shows', keeping the shrouds in place,
and avoiding the potential for the kinds of accidents you describe.

We can disagree amicably. We have also never had an e-match accident, doing
it the way we do.
(never _had_ doesn't mean "never will"; I know) The two techs who yanked
squibs out weren't ours, and knew better. If you can believe this, one of
the accidents happened in a storage shed of 1.4g goods, and the item that
ignited was a 36-shot cake. It blew comets all over the shed, but not one
other box (closed, mercifully) caught fire. I asked him what the hell he
was thinking to be doing "manufacturing" inside a storage area. Glum, dumb
look in response.

Post by ned
Additionally the shrouds add much safety if the product is to be boxed
and shipped by truck to a show after being ematched.

Ned, unless you're a member of the very small special-exemption group of
companies that are permitted to ship pre-squibbed shells, you're committing
a serious criminal offense by doing so. If you don't _know_ you're a member> > of that group, you probably are not, even if you've done it for years.
Be careful of that, please. Most folks don't even know it's illegal.
LLoyd

Lloyd,
Wasn't a few guys killed a few years ago when they were unloading a
trailer of pre-matched shells and one of the matches popped while
still in the box ? That practice would really spook me !- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -

[Lloyd E. Sponenburgh]

Post by Raul
Wasn't a few guys killed a few years ago when they were unloading a
trailer of pre-matched shells and one of the matches popped while
still in the box ? That practice would really spook me !

Yep, down in southwestern Florida -- Homosassa Springs, IIRC.

LLoyd

[ned]

Post by Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

Post by ned
Additionally the shrouds add much safety if the product is to be boxed
and shipped by truck to a show after being ematched.

Ned, unless you're a member of the very small special-exemption group of
companies that are permitted to ship pre-squibbed shells, you're committing
a serious criminal offense by doing so. If you don't _know_ you're a member
of that group, you probably are not, even if you've done it for years.
Be careful of that, please. Most folks don't even know it's illegal.
LLoyd

Perhaps a better word would have been 'transported' rather than
shipped, Lloyd. We have ematched shells and transported them to shows,
but have never shipped them via commercial carrier. My point was that
the shroud protects the ematch/shell from any impact or friction. I'm
quite surprised by the amount of product coming in from China that is
already ematched.
ned

[Lloyd E. Sponenburgh]

Post by ned
Perhaps a better word would have been 'transported' rather than
shipped, Lloyd. We have ematched shells and transported them to shows,
but have never shipped them via commercial carrier. My point was that
the shroud protects the ematch/shell from any impact or friction. I'm
quite surprised by the amount of product coming in from China that is
already ematched.
ned

I need to reiterate that it is illegal to transport (yourself or by
common-carrier) pre-matched 1.3g shells unless you are a member of the small
special-exemption group of companies authorized to do so.

LLoyd

[h***@yahoo.com]

Butchie, I rarely have shot electrically myself, but on every (perhaps
20) professional displays shot electrically, Daveyfire Squibs were
always used. I have never seen a misfire. Expensive yes, but you get
what you pay for. I've also never seen any other brand of e-match
used on professional displays, which are notoriously cost conscious.

I've shot a few Davefires by themselves just to see what happens, and
what happens is a sharp sounding pop, actually not very loud. Still
they seem to ignite quickmatch with near 100% reliability. There is
little or no visible flame produced. Also, the duration of a Davyfire
e-match is measured in milliseconds. Go figure.

Just a shot in the dark, but are you crimping your stub leaders closed
over the inserted e-matches to contain the hot gas pressure of your e-
match. Tape is likely not a very effective method to do this. I was
taught to slide the e-match into the leader stub (the cut off
quickmatch), then cinch the leader tube closed above the e-match with
a fireworks knot (clove hitch).

Hope this helps.

Harry C.

Post by butchie
Purchased a few remotes and some E-match (Chinese).Could not wait to
play with them and see how well they would function. The E-match came
with a plastic sleeve at the serious end, shot 2 standard 3" salutes
( Chinese). After removing the paper sleeve from the fuse to the
salutes the plastic sleeve from the E-match was not even a close match
as far as size. So I taped them together, no problem. What am I
missing here, maybe a improper E-match? I have helped fire a few shows
and paid close attention to any E-match firing systems used in a show,
don't remember this being such a hassle. Any help? Thanks.

[Lloyd E. Sponenburgh]

Post by h***@yahoo.com
I've shot a few Davefires by themselves just to see what happens, and
what happens is a sharp sounding pop, actually not very loud. Still
they seem to ignite quickmatch with near 100% reliability. There is
little or no visible flame produced. Also, the duration of a Davyfire
e-match is measured in milliseconds. Go figure.

The Davey matches were renouned for their large flame envelope. It was
fast, yes, but much larger than the flame produced by other competive
matches. Also, Daveys _burned_ rather than exploding sharply. They
"popped", yes, but with little force - as you said - and produced a flame
ball roughly an inch in diameter.

Some of the Chinese matches we've tested were unusable when contained in
their shields. They would explode forceably enough to shatter the shield,
often blowing a leader apart without igniting it. Without the shields, they
were unremarkable, and pretty unreliable, but would ignite quickmatch well.

MJG and Martinez matches are comparable in performance to the now-defunct
Daveys. Their reliability - due to electrical/mechanical problems - has not
been as good, but MJG has taken steps to greatly improve on that.

Rumor has it that LeMaitre will re-introduce the Davey-like version of OXRAL
matches soon. We're waiting.

LLoyd

[h***@yahoo.com]

Lloyd, just one minor comment.

Davey fires, at least the SA 2000, A/N 23 Br (whatever that means)
when fired produce no visible flame at all, just a quick burst of
superheated gas. I would send you a few to try for youself were they
mailable. Just as an experiment, I will lay one on a while paper sheet
and shoot it. Then photograph it before and the sheet of paper
afterwards. It would be nice if I had available an IR sensitive
framing HS camera, but unless I want to ask for the assistance of MIT,
I don't have these resources available.

I really want to post a few close up shots of a Daveyfirew squib,
since most readers won't know what I am posting about, and I am
definitly not a fan of French product,,,but this is an exception.


Lloyd, at this point, I have no idea why, as fast as they fire, why
they are nearly 100% effective in ignighting quickmatch. From what I
have personally observed, their effect is over in a couple of
milliseconds...and they do make a pop, but they are close to 100%
effective. How they work or what they are made of is still a mystery
to me.

You mention OXRAL, and I hope OXRAL has discovered and exploited
Davyfire secret. Also, back on New Years, 2005, I witnessed several
hundred or thousands of Daveyfires being used in Boston, fropm those
long gray boxes, so unless someone has a huge inventory, they must be
still available.

For you French, I am glad you you exterminated that last bastard in
your government, whose policies made the French appear as just another
third world toilet, Bravo, the new government....


Harry C.

Post by Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

Post by h***@yahoo.com
I've shot a few Davefires by themselves just to see what happens, and
what happens is a sharp sounding pop, actually not very loud. Still
they seem to ignite quickmatch with near 100% reliability. There is
little or no visible flame produced. Also, the duration of a Davyfire
e-match is measured in milliseconds. Go figure.

The Davey matches were renouned for their large flame envelope. It was
fast, yes, but much larger than the flame produced by other competive
matches. Also, Daveys _burned_ rather than exploding sharply. They
"popped", yes, but with little force - as you said - and produced a flame
ball roughly an inch in diameter.
Some of the Chinese matches we've tested were unusable when contained in
their shields. They would explode forceably enough to shatter the shield,
often blowing a leader apart without igniting it. Without the shields, they
were unremarkable, and pretty unreliable, but would ignite quickmatch well.
MJG and Martinez matches are comparable in performance to the now-defunct
Daveys. Their reliability - due to electrical/mechanical problems - has not
been as good, but MJG has taken steps to greatly improve on that.
Rumor has it that LeMaitre will re-introduce the Davey-like version of OXRAL
matches soon. We're waiting.
LLoyd

[Nobody]

Post by h***@yahoo.com
How they work or what they are made of is still a mystery

Daveyfire N28B used a lead explosive. The catalog indicated the type
and amount of composition. I'll check my catalog later and post the
details.

[Nobody]

Post by h***@yahoo.com
Davey fires, at least the SA 2000, A/N 23 Br (whatever that means)
when fired produce no visible flame at all

Did you mean the N28B and N28BR? My catalog does not show a "23". There
was a N15B, N18B, N20F, N24B, N26B, N28B and more models.

28 = size of bridgewire in microns (28 = #50 wire)

B = "burst" - a quick pop
F = "fire" - slower burning
R = "reinforced" - more explosive material per fusehead

Daveyfire used lead mononitroresorcinate (LMNR) in its ematches.

The N28B contained 0.16 grams LMNR per head.
The N28BR contained 0.48 grams LMNR per head.

MJG Technologies is (or was) using a different lead compound in the
M-Tek ematch.

[h***@yahoo.com]

Neal, you got me on that one. Examining the long gray box of my last
remaining Daveyfires under magnification, the marking is indeed A/N 23
Br. dated 19 Mars, 1985. These are the overstock that I saved from a
large electrical shoot in 1986. Damn, how time flies!

Based on your catalog information, it would indicate that these have a
#23 bridge, and a burst/reinforced charge that goes off with a "snap".
That is totally consistent with my observations on test shots. I saw
no visible flame at all, and was shooting them in a fairly dark area
of a basement.

Don't laugh, but the very last time I used one of these was to create
an exploding radio for a church basement theatrical production. It
used a modified rat trap to toss metalic confetti into the air, an AG1
flash bulb to illumiate the foil, and the Daveyfire to set off a small
firecracker and flash powder to accompany the effect. Obviously, this
was a pro bono thing, with my next door neighbor in charge of it.
Fortunately everything went as planned, and I did not burn down that
two year old church!

I would love to have a copy of that catalog! Do you know if the
Daveyfires are still being made and sold?

Harry C.

Post by Nobody

Post by h***@yahoo.com
Davey fires, at least the SA 2000, A/N 23 Br (whatever that means)
when fired produce no visible flame at all

Did you mean the N28B and N28BR? My catalog does not show a "23". There
was a N15B, N18B, N20F, N24B, N26B, N28B and more models.
28 = size of bridgewire in microns (28 = #50 wire)
B = "burst" - a quick pop
F = "fire" - slower burning
R = "reinforced" - more explosive material per fusehead
Daveyfire used lead mononitroresorcinate (LMNR) in its ematches.
The N28B contained 0.16 grams LMNR per head.
The N28BR contained 0.48 grams LMNR per head.
MJG Technologies is (or was) using a different lead compound in the
M-Tek ematch.

[h***@yahoo.com]

Sorry for the mistake, I called you "Neal". I can't explain why.
Possibly it indicates that it's time to hand the flare to someone
younger. No doubt Joe smith will have some comment to make on this.

Harry C.

Post by h***@yahoo.com
Neal, you got me on that one. Examining the long gray box of my last
remaining Daveyfires under magnification, the marking is indeed A/N 23
Br. dated 19 Mars, 1985. These are the overstock that I saved from a
large electrical shoot in 1986. Damn, how time flies!
Based on your catalog information, it would indicate that these have a
#23 bridge, and a burst/reinforced charge that goes off with a "snap".
That is totally consistent with my observations on test shots. I saw
no visible flame at all, and was shooting them in a fairly dark area
of a basement.
Don't laugh, but the very last time I used one of these was to create
an exploding radio for a church basement theatrical production. It
used a modified rat trap to toss metalic confetti into the air, an AG1
flash bulb to illumiate the foil, and the Daveyfire to set off a small
firecracker and flash powder to accompany the effect. Obviously, this
was a pro bono thing, with my next door neighbor in charge of it.
Fortunately everything went as planned, and I did not burn down that
two year old church!
I would love to have a copy of that catalog! Do you know if the
Daveyfires are still being made and sold?
Harry C.

Post by Nobody

Post by h***@yahoo.com
Davey fires, at least the SA 2000, A/N 23 Br (whatever that means)
when fired produce no visible flame at all

Did you mean the N28B and N28BR? My catalog does not show a "23". There
was a N15B, N18B, N20F, N24B, N26B, N28B and more models.
28 = size of bridgewire in microns (28 = #50 wire)
B = "burst" - a quick pop
F = "fire" - slower burning
R = "reinforced" - more explosive material per fusehead
Daveyfire used lead mononitroresorcinate (LMNR) in its ematches.
The N28B contained 0.16 grams LMNR per head.
The N28BR contained 0.48 grams LMNR per head.
MJG Technologies is (or was) using a different lead compound in the
M-Tek ematch.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

[c***@yahoo.com]

Post by h***@yahoo.com
You mention OXRAL, and I hope OXRAL has discovered and exploited
Davyfire secret.

LLoyd

I've used thousands of Oxralls, they are much better then they were
just three years ago. Gone are the constantly self knotting seperate
wires, now they use the paired wire which is infinitely better to work
with. I have only seen two squibs so far that were bad or failed to
ignite the shell leader. The biggest safety hazard in my opinion with
e-matches is not the friction sensitivity, but the static sensitivity.
As long as you have it shunted, which is how they ship, you are pretty
much good to go. I'm still a big fan of the Davey Fires though.

[Lloyd E. Sponenburgh]

Post by h***@yahoo.com
Lloyd, just one minor comment.
Davey fires, at least the SA 2000, A/N 23 Br (whatever that means)
when fired produce no visible flame at all, just a quick burst of
superheated gas. I would send you a few to try for youself were they
mailable. Just as an experiment, I will lay one on a while paper sheet
and shoot it. Then photograph it before and the sheet of paper
afterwards. It would be nice if I had available an IR sensitive
framing HS camera, but unless I want to ask for the assistance of MIT,
I don't have these resources available.

If you're watching the flame envelope with your eyes, I'd expect you
wouldn't see a 2-4ms event. (My brain's thesaurus somehow equates "flame"
and "burst of superheated gas"... maybe yours doesn't)

The SA2000s are the matches we used until they were discontinued.

LLoyd

[Lloyd E. Sponenburgh]

Post by butchie
Purchased a few remotes and some E-match (Chinese).Could not wait to
play with them and see how well they would function. The E-match came
with a plastic sleeve at the serious end, shot 2 standard 3" salutes
( Chinese). After removing the paper sleeve from the fuse to the
salutes the plastic sleeve from the E-match was not even a close match
as far as size. So I taped them together, no problem. What am I
missing here, maybe a improper E-match? I have helped fire a few shows
and paid close attention to any E-match firing systems used in a show,
don't remember this being such a hassle. Any help? Thanks.

Push the protective shield back down the wire to expose the head. Bury the
head in the gob.

LLoyd